Aside from being heavy drinkers and womanizers, what do Barney Stinson, James Bond, Harvey Specter, and Don Draper have in common? They all look suave, thanks to their ability to wear a suit, which is the trademark of the professional man.
Now you may be thinking to yourself that you’ve never looked anywhere near as dashing as these men wearing a suit and you’re probably right but not for the reason you’re thinking. If you want to look sharp, smart, and put-together then you need to pay attention to the finer details of suiting up.
Too many men wear a suit improperly and therefore, don’t look nearly as good as they can. Common mistakes like wearing pants that are too long, jacket sleeves that are too short, improperly matching your tie to your shirt are just among a few of many mistakes you’re probably making.
But fear not! Read Jackdaw’s ultimate guide to suiting up below so that you can dress to impress and walk into a room allowing your presence to be felt.
Never button the bottom button of a suit jacket.
NEVER do it. EVER. This is the most common mistake that guys make when wearing a suit, and it’s the worst one. Whether it’s got two buttons or three buttons, single or double-breasted, you just shouldn’t do it. The jacket is tailored to only have the middle button closed, so that’s the only button you should close. Don’t mind the bottom one, it’s just there for style. Oh, and when you’re sitting down, unbutton the jacket again. The jacket will look weird on you if you don’t and you could actually ruin the shape of it.
The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.
In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, Harvey Specter style.
Your shirt cuffs shouldn’t go over your hands.
Your shirt cuffs should be narrow enough that they rest just on the top of your hands at the start of your thumb. A good rule to follow is that if you can fit your hand through the cuff when it’s buttoned or fastened with cuff links, then it’s too wide.
Your jacket should fit.
This sounds like a no-brainer but again a lot of guys break this rule. The shoulders of your suit should hug your own shoulders, there should be no gap between the collar of your shirt and the collar of your jacket, and ideally, the jacket sleeves should be about a half-inch shorter than your shirt sleeves. Anything else and the jacket is too big for you. But be careful not to go too far the other way. Skinny fit suits are pretty popular at the moment and can look good, but you should always be able to button the jacket and still fit your hand comfortably between the breast and your shirt.
Your trousers should fit.
Your trousers should just about sit on the tops of your shoes. If they’re too long they just looked bunched up and baggy, and if they’re too short, you can see your socks. Neither of which are a particularly flattering look.
A pocket square adds an extra level of panache and pizzazz, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.
You should match your shoes to the color of your suit using this guide:
Your belt should match your shoes.
A lot of guys, myself included, like wearing a brown belt to be a little different, and make the suit look slightly lighter than if you were to wear a black belt. And this is perfectly fine, just as long as you wear brown shoes as well. The color of your shoes should always be the same as the colour of your belt, no exceptions. And if you’re wearing a watch with a leather strap, this should match also. You might think this is just being OCD, but it does work, and your suit will look a billion times better if they do match then if they don’t.
Your socks should always cover your legs.
You go through all the effort and actually look pretty bad-ass in your suit, then suddenly you sit down and everyone can see the leg hair between your socks and your trousers. Make sure your socks are long enough. And if you want to make your legs look longer, wear socks that are the same color as your trousers. Or wear ninja turtle socks. It doesn’t really matter as long they’re long enough.
Your tie should end at or just before your belt
This one might be a case of trial and error, even for myself, when you’re getting dressed because it can be pretty difficult to determine where exactly to tie the knot, but it’s worth it. At the very minimum, you shouldn’t be able to see any of your shirt buttons if you don’t have a tie on, while not going beyond your belt when you’re standing up.
You should be able to comfortably slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with adequate room to move.
If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.
If you’re wearing suspenders, don’t wear a belt.
Simple enough really, the idea behind suspenders is to keep your trousers up, like a belt, so if you wear both at the same time one of them is obviously redundant. It’s like standing under a bus shelter to keep out of the rain while still having your umbrella up. It just looks weird.
Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.
The suit jacket should be just long enough to cover your pants zipper and butt.
Go for the dimple.
The color of your tie has to be in contrast with your suit.
If it’s a dark coloured suit, make sure to get a tie in a lighter shade. And vice versa.
19. The shoulders of the suit should hug your shoulders.
With a suit, it’s all about the fit. And the true test of your suit’s rests on your shoulders.
Finally, the tie-bar should not be wider than the tie.
It’s like wearing trousers too long for your legs. Agreed they solve the purpose but there’s something to be said about aesthetics and visuals too, right?
Thanks for reading.
The Jackdaw only trusts one name when it comes to all his suits and tuxedos, that’s Salvo Tailors. Jackdaw and Salvo Tailors both share a common goal, to make the world a little more dapper . Picture a world where all the boys and girls are impeccably well dressed. A delivery guy in a jacket and tie, a puppy with a double breast, that 80’s dude with mutton chops, that little baby with a lollipop, that waitress who’s kinda cute, nothing suits’em like a suit.
Dapper up and get in touch with Salvo Tailors:
Mobile: (+63) 917-536 0437